▪ Abstract Active transport requires the alternation of substrate uptake and release with a switch in the access of the substrate binding site to the two sides of the membrane. Both the transfer and switch aspects of the photocycle have been subjects of magnetic resonance studies in bacteriorhodopsin. The results for ion transfer indicate that the Schiff base of the chromophore is hydrogen bonded before, during, and after its deprotonation. This suggests that the initial complex counterion of the Schiff base decomposes in such a way that the Schiff base carries its immediate hydrogen-bonding partner with it as it rotates during the first half of the photocycle. If so, bacteriorhodopsin acts as an inward-directed hydroxide pump rather than as an outward-directed proton pump. The studies of the access switch explore both protein-based and chromophore-based mechanisms. Combined with evidence from functional studies of mutants and other forms of spectroscopy, the results suggest that maintaining access to the extracellular side of the protein after photoisomerization involves twisting of the chromophore and that the decisive switch in access to the cytoplasmic side results from relaxation of the chromophore when the constraints on the Schiff base are released by decomposition of the complex counterion.